Location

Fréjus old town

The house is in the heart of the vieux village — the medieval old town of Fréjus, in the Var department of Provence. It’s one of the most historically rich and genuinely characterful places on the Côte d’Azur, and considerably less overrun than its more famous neighbours.

Fréjus was an important Roman port, and the evidence is everywhere: a 12,000-seat amphitheatre, a Roman theatre, ancient city gates, an aqueduct, and the early Christian baptistery — one of the oldest in France. The Cathedral of Saint-Léonce, which is practically next door to the house, has a remarkable medieval cloister with a larchwood ceiling painted with 300 images. History isn’t something you go to find in Fréjus — it’s simply part of the fabric of the town.

The old town is also very much alive: restaurants, bars, the twice-weekly market, independent shops, and a lively square that fills up on summer evenings.

Next door: the Cathedral

The Cathédrale Saint-Léonce is two minutes’ walk from the house. The episcopal complex — cathedral, baptistery, cloister and former bishop’s palace — dates from the 5th to the 13th century. The cloister is particularly worth visiting, with its carved stone columns and the extraordinary painted ceiling.

The markets

The Wednesday and Saturday markets take place in the old town, practically on your doorstep. Fresh vegetables, fish, cheese, charcuterie, flowers, local wines and the general cheerful chaos of a proper Provençal market. Go early for the best of the produce.

There’s also a large Sunday market down at the seafront (Place de la République).

The beaches

Plage Caouanne is our favourite beach and an easy walk from the house — head down to the canal and follow it to the sea, around 25 minutes on foot. A quieter, less touristy stretch of fine sand even in high summer. The name comes from caouanne — the French word for the loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta) — which actually comes ashore to nest on the Fréjus beaches in summer. Parking is at Plage de la Base Nature a little further along.

On the way back, the canal path leads straight to Port Fréjus and Old School at the marina — a cold beer watching the boats is the natural end to a beach afternoon.

Saint-Aygulf / Plage des Esclamandes is about 10 minutes by car — a longer stretch of beach good for paddleboarding and kayaking; equipment hire from Bambou Water-Sports on the beach.

Day trips

The location is excellent for exploring the wider region.

Saint-Raphaël is a lively seaside town with good beaches, restaurants and a marina — a pleasant evening destination. The Corniche d’Or coastal road between Fréjus and Cannes, through the red rock Estérel landscape, is one of the most spectacular drives in the south of France.